|It's a beautiful coast - once you get there and if the sun shines|
So here we are in a very isolated spot in the old Transkei, called “The Wild Coast”. Normally, keen hikers and fishermen find their way here to explore the beautiful coastline and forest but my husband chose this place for our holiday by studying Google Earth. The hotel looked beautiful on the Internet – an old thatched place, a stone’s throw from the sandy beach and a very reasonable price for full-board for 4 days, I agreed without demur. My husband needs to wind down and I even said (with faked enthusiasm) that I would go fishing with him. The place certainly lives up to its name because today and for the last two days it has been pouring with rain, more than 90 mm. to be exact, unheard of for this time of year and the sea is rough. Climate change is to be blamed and as a result we are confined to barracks. The drive from the highway should have created doubts: a ground road, perilously snaking its way over high hills, then plunging into lush green valleys, dizzying hairpin bends and cattle, goats and pigs roaming free. The blurb said “68 kilometres which should take an hour and a half. Relax and enjoy the scenery.” Perhaps on a nice day. We hit a thunderstorm which blackened the sky at a critical point and we had no idea which way to turn. Service-delivery protests had been organised by the local community (the ANC are disrupting all over the country because of the imminent general election) and signs were down. A scary two hours later we managed to reach our destination, which by the way, was not on the map of our Garmin upon which, in this technological age, we foolishly depend. As we speak, the phone lines are down and there is no cell phone or Internet connection. So it’s very peaceful. My husband would normally be restless, but as he went down with a bad throat and chest (which he gets every time we go on holiday), he is resting and doing a lot of reading: particularly good is “I am Pilgrim” by Terry Hayes. . I am delighted to be anywhere that I don’t have to worry about meals and where someone makes my bed and cleans the room. I asked my best friend what she had enjoyed most about her 3-day boat cruise. Almost the same as me: the 3 meals a day plus snacks, the clean towels and the bed-making. Off to play Scrabble with myself…. Perhaps we can fish tomorrow.